Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (2024)

Every week --often with your help-- Food52's Senior EditorKristen Migloreis unearthing recipes that are nothing short of genius.

Today: A ragù that works around your schedule -- and might even be better than Nonna's, thanks to a secret ingredient or four.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (1)

It you're looking to make a correct bolognese or a definitive bolognese -- and you're looking to do so while avoiding scolding -- this is not the recipe for you.

There are times to make Bologna's saucy gift to the world -- a proper version, in all its delicate, slow-cooked glory. Let us appreciate it, and cook it sometimes -- but (please) let us also then play around with it, and make it new, ours, and, in our various ways, better.

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Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (2) Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (3)

Nigel Slater's version in The Kitchen Diaries is humbly named: "A really good spaghetti bolognese" doesn't begin to cover it. But it's not correct. In just about every way, it does the opposite of Marcella Hazan's bolognese, by many accounts the Platonic ideal.

More: Tomato sauce with onion and butter, another Platonic ideal from Marcella Hazan.

Hazan speaks to her sauce quietly, over long stretches. Plain ingredients -- ground beef, onion, celery, carrot -- melt. She doesn't brown a thing; she doesn't raise the knob above medium. "No less than 3 hours is necessary, more is better," she says. And that's after you've already watched tides of milk, then white wine, then tomatoes ebb away at a very, very slow simmer.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (4)

When you have a Sunday to loll near the stove, do this. If you want to really understand a classic bolognese, stand by, tasting here and there to see how the sauce mellows and sweetens and swells with time. To be fair, Hazan notes that you can stop at any point, then resume. But that doesn't get you to dinner in time for tonight.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (5) Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (6)

In Slater's blasphemous, really good recipe, every step is brilliantly layered within the others, so that while your onions are softening, you're chopping carrots and celery; once they're in, it's onto the next.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (7) Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (8)

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (9)

The recipe is a model of kitchen efficiency and focus. If you're a compulsive mise-en-placer, that's okay (see ingredient shot above) -- you can still follow along.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (10) Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (11)

Unlike in Hazan's standard of patience and virtue, heat gets cranked, and bits are left to color. On top of workaday soffrito, Slater pulls from the large-and-in-charge ingredient roster: there's pancetta, red wine, bay leaves. If you're feeling really hungry and feisty, there's even a ground lamb option, and it is outstanding. Perhaps most genius of all: there are portobello mushrooms.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (12)

Not only do the mushrooms plump up the earthy notes and umami, they also go all buttery and soft. Any textural subtlety you've lost in cooking your sauce a bit more aggressively is returned with the swollen swish of portobello. In about an hour and a half, you have an exceptionally supple, meaty ragù, one you'll consider eating without the interruption of pasta, or anything else on the plate.

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (13)

But about that pasta. Slater calls for spaghetti. Counterpoint, Hazan: "Meat sauce in Bologna is never served over spaghetti." Fresh tagliatelle, yes. Lasagne, classic. Fresh tortellini, good. Twirly dry shapes like rigatoni, conchiglie, fusilli, irreproachable. We used linguine. Not irreproachable. But really good.

"I made it during the week," Food52er JadeTree told me when she sent it my way, "since I had a rare hour of freedom to chop (and chop you will), but we all agreed that this is company food, hands down. Just because you want a bigger crowd to marvel over it."

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (14)

Nigel Slater's Really Good Spaghetti Bolognese

Adapted slightly from The Kitchen Diaries (Gotham Books, 2006)

Serves 4

For the bolognese:

4 tablespoons butter
3 ounces cubed pancetta
1 medium onion
2 fat cloves garlic
1 carrot
2 stalks celery
2 large, flat mushrooms such as portobello, about 4 ounces
2 bay leaves
1 pound ground beef or lamb
1 cup crushed tomatoes or passata
1/4 cupred wine
3/4 cupstock
A nutmeg
3/4 cuphalf-and-half or cream

To serve:

Spaghetti or tagliatelle for 4
Grated Parmesan

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Got a genius recipe to share -- from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at[emailprotected].Thanks to Food52er JadeTree for this one!

Photos by James Ransom

Nigel Slater's Spaghetti Bolognese - Genius Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What makes spaghetti bolognese taste better? ›

Milk. Adding milk to Bolognese is actually a part of the traditional method. Not only does dairy make sauces silkier and richer, but it also makes the meat more tender. We add milk to our mixture a whole hour after simmering our Bolognese, and then allow it to simmer for a further 45 minutes.

How do you get the depth of flavour in spaghetti bolognese? ›

You can cheat in more flavour by “seasoning” the tomatoes with a little sugar and lemon juice now too. During cooking, you can further improve your meat sauce by adding other flavourings to boost complexity; a splash of worcestershire or even some soy which are both especially good with beef mince.

What does adding milk to spaghetti bolognese do? ›

Milk is a magical ingredient when it comes to bolognese. First, the lactic acid and calcium in milk help to tenderize the meat. More than that, though, milk balances the wine and tomato, creates a creamier texture and adds richness (similar to how butter or yogurt add more richness and flavor to dishes).

What is the difference between spaghetti bolognese and spag bol? ›

Spaghetti bolognese, or shortened to "spag bol" in the UK, is a popular pasta dish outside Italy, although not part of Italian cuisine. The dish is generally perceived as inauthentic by Italians.

What can I add to Bolognese sauce to give it more flavour? ›

You can add various herbs, too. Try a teaspoon of dried Italian mixed herbs (added at the start) or a tablespoon of fresh, chopped oregano (added towards the end) in the meat sauce.

What is the best cut of meat for Bolognese sauce? ›

If you want to cut the meat yourself, get cuts like chuck or flank steak, as per the Bolognese tradition, or even a skirt steak (the diaphragm, practically impossible to find at the butchers). The same goes for pork: choose pieces like the thigh which are fatty and tasty.

Do Italians put carrots in bolognese? ›

Secret to Best Bolognese Sauce

The base for this sauce is made from a combination of diced onion, carrot and celery cooked in olive oil. Italians call it 'soffritto” and use it as a foundation for many sauces, soups and stews.

Do Italians use milk in bolognese? ›

It sounds unconventional to use milk in a meaty red sauce, but upon further investigation, it makes total sense why Italians swear by it. According to our Food Director Amira, not only does milk add a rich flavour to the bolognese, but it also “helps cut through the acidity of the tomatoes and red wine”.

Do you simmer bolognese with the lid on or off? ›

Lid off will allow extra moisture in the sauce to evaporate and thicken it. So, if you want a thicker sauce, lid off. Thinner, perhaps less strong flavored, lid on. Super low simmer and slow, even heating is best for a long cooking tomato sauce.

What do Italians eat with bolognese? ›

Take bolognese; you might be used to eating it with spaghetti, but no self-respecting Italian would ever serve a meaty ragú like this with such a thin pasta shape. Substantial sauces call for substantial pasta shapes, so a wider, flatter shape like tagliatelle or pappardelle is more appropriate.

What is the American version of spaghetti bolognese? ›

American Bolognese: A Fusion of Flavors

Although ground beef is still essential, additional proteins such as ground turkey or sausage are frequently welcomed. As the vegetable medley grows, it gains more texture and flavour with the addition of bell peppers and mushrooms.

What do they call spaghetti bolognese in Italy? ›

Rather than "spaghetti bolognese," what you'll actually find in Italy is Ragù alla Bolognese, which is their equivalent meat-based sauce.

Why does my bolognese taste bland? ›

Blandness usually comes from lack of seasoning. When you prepare a dish like spaghetti sauce you want to season as you go, not just at the end. Salt enhances the flavor of foods as well as performs some important functions during cooking, like drawing moisture out of ingredients and intensifying their flavor.

How can I make my spaghetti more flavorful? ›

Here are my favorite ways to make canned spaghetti sauce more exciting!
  1. 1 - Extra virgin olive oil. Adding a good amount of a flavorful olive oil will go a long way in infusing flavor into your sauce. ...
  2. 2 - Fresh garlic. ...
  3. 3 - Meat. ...
  4. 4 - Hot pepper flakes. ...
  5. 5 - Red wine. ...
  6. 6 - Fresh or dried herbs. ...
  7. 7 - Cheese. ...
  8. 8 - Cream and/or butter.
Feb 26, 2018

Does bolognese get better the longer you cook it? ›

Let the sauce simmer for at least 1 hour, but preferably 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. This slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld and intensify, transforming the sauce into a luscious masterpiece.

How do you get the meaty taste out of bolognese? ›

just leave out the ground meat. or you could substitute another type of meat cut, such as cubed shoulder. if you do not sauté the ground meat before adding it, it's flavor will be attenuated. but5 simplest is just don't add any meat.

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